Af! Sd.Kfz.250/1 "Towing"

[Gérard Deygas]

Hello, I’m back....Made during the same year, in 2006, I propose my new subject. The Sd.Kfz.250/1. 1-2 ) I chose the Aber photo-etched sheets to detail the DRAGON Sd.Kfz.250.The manufacturer supplies very complete sheets, finely reproduced for a very interesting price.Only 30 % of these parts will be used improve the presentation of the models.

 

[Gérard Deygas]

3) The inside panels of the body are not exaggeratedly detailed,only what will be seen!

4) The supports and clamps of the weapons come from the Aber set n° 35084.Some Evergreen sections and tinfoil complete the elements of fixation.

5) The armoured plate of teh driving post is too large.It will be reduced after gluing.The assembling joins are filled with Sintofer, a finishing putty used by coachbuilders.

6) The bolts holding the rubber sets on the drive sprocket crown are made of .010" plasticard with Punch & Die hexagonal hollow punch.

7) The floor is sold separately under teh reference Aber n° 35A87.

8) All the added parts disappeared after the painting but we can clearly see the fineness of the photoetched parts such as the rear chest.

Curiously the photos are installed in disorder!



😕

 

[Peter van Dijk]

One of my favorite vehicles Gérard and with your presentation i'll gladly follow this blog 🙂

 

[Gérard Deygas]

Great, thank you Peter

 

[Jakko Westerbeke]

I’ve put the pictures in the correct order 🙂

 

[Gérard Deygas]

The inside of the body is painted Humbol 67 grey.The whole lot is covered with some pigment grey dust.Use a flat paintbrush to apply the pigment.You will obtain a used and dusty aspect.Paint without exaggeration some scratches and painting splinters- mix of Humbrol 67 + Humbrol 33 - in order to reinforce the patina of the body.The leather part of the seats is treated with Raw Sienna,Burnt Sienna,Titanium White Winsor& Newton oils.On the floor of the Sd.Kfz.250 make mud traces appear, earth, scratches caused by the frequent coming and doing of the crew.

 

[Gérard Deygas]

Thank you Jakko for putting the photos in order!

 

[Gérard Deygas]

1) Some plastic is missing of the lower part of the rear plate as revealed on this picture! It is very difficult to assemble this parts with the sides of the body.File, sandpaper and putty qare necessary to correct the assembling defaults.

2)The rear body is finished. We can clearly see the plasticard addition on the lower part of the rear plate.The weldings are reproduced with a paste made of mix of plastic scraps/Trichloréthylène ( Product now banned from sale).Effect these works in a well ventilated room.

3) Dragon was not interested in the exhaust pipe.I built if from a resin log.Note the improvements to the direction arrow.

 

[Hilbert Zuijdendorp]

Great work! Love it!

 

[Peter van Dijk]

Nice work and at the same time usefull reference 👍

 

[Gérard Deygas]

Thank you both for your feedback 😉

 

[Gérard Deygas]

The ventilation hole of the protection hood of the exhaust pipe are shaped on a rubber with a small screwdriver .The soft matter allows a quick and realistic put in shape. The model is almost finished.We can see the added parts on the grey plastic.

 

[Gérard Deygas]

The manoeuvring guides come from Jordi Rubio ( I just saw on Armorama that the Master brand released a set of maneuvering guides...)

The manoeuvring guides are in place. We can see the rings at the end of the hooks. They are made of electric wire shaped on a sewing needle.

The feeding wire of headlights is made of tin wire. The padlock is missing on the right lateral chest..As it is fragile it is placed only once the painting steps are finished.

 

[Walter Jonkers]

Nice details !! 👍🏻

 

[Walter Jonkers]

Please can you explain the “how to do this” more in detail?

 

[Maarten Weers]

Met een schroevendraaier deukjes duwen in de PE terwijl het ondersteund wordt met een flinke gum?

 

[Gérard Deygas]

Everything is flat at the beginning on the plate in photoetched. The ventilation holes are pushed back into the gum which does not offer resistance and allows a perfect alignment

 

[Gérard Deygas]

1) As the inside is finished I protected it whit some pieces of handkerchief paper placed carefully in order to avoid breaking te most fragile parts..Some thin bands of adhesive tape are placed to complete the protection against the outside painting.

2) The model is painted Humbrol 67.The painting diluted white White spirit is filtered then sprayed with an Aztec airbrush white polyvalent tube.

3) After 24 hours of complete drying the model is covered with a thin coat of grey dust pigment.The application is realised with an Isabey flat paintbrush n° 9 .But you can also use an airbrush.

4-5) On the front plate of the body the half parts is treated with grey dust.

 

[Gérard Deygas]

The model before and after application of the Maskol. Do not hesitate to apply a big coat of Maskol easier to remove after drying.Usually the long-haired round brush do no survey after dipping it in the Maskol.You should better use a cheap or damaged brush..The white camouflage covered the panzer grey.The Maskol can be carefullt removed with a round ended X-Acto blade n°22

Some scatches with the same blade let appear the base colour, this way it is not necessary to use a thin brush!

For the whitewashing I used The Gunze H11 painting diluted with surgical spirit.The model is not completly covered. Some parts have to stay dark grey bicause the faded and used effect of the winter camouflage will be increased once the patina finished.

Picture A: The final result after resuming the shades of gray and white with a brush brush, undiluted paint.

It is obvious that with the techniques proposed today, my way of painting this camouflage is completely outdated.... But she’s almost 20!

 

[Gérard Deygas]

More photos of the winter camouflage. Weathering means all the technics used to patinate,to use, to dirty....Indeed to give a figthing style to your model ! To increase the used aspect of the 250 I applied a dry-brushing on some parts of the model by using an Humbrol 67+ Revell 86. mix.

 

[Peter van Dijk]

Nowadays it is one of many ways to weather but i would not say it is an outdated technique.
Anyhow Gérard, it looks great

 

[Gérard Deygas]

Hello Peter,
Thank you for this appreciation. Today a large number of product exist and facilitates the work of patina.

 

[Gérard Deygas]

I remain faithful to Friulmodel for the tracks.Engraving and casting fautless, quick assembling, sall these qualitie from this manufacturer are strong arguments!

The drive sprockets are supplied in the Friulmodel kit but it is not necessary to replace the Dragon parts.

Humbrol 33 or Revell 6 black mat priming coat.Then application of a mix "The battle colors" rust and mud + dark mud.

After few secondes of drying we obtain a very realistic mud aspect! The link rubber is painted Humbrol 33 + revell 86 Earth.

I used a mix of oil painting and talc to reproduce the mud. This mix is applied on the running gear and on the lower part of the body white a flat paintbrush.Once dry the mud is covered with a bright varnish. On this picture we can appreciate another advantage of the white metal tracks...their weight! They take place naturally on the road wheel.

 

[Gérard Deygas]

For the diorama that will follow I associated the Simca 5 of DES Kits (the Tamiya kit did not exist at the time) to my Sd.Kfz 250

 

[Gérard Deygas]

Fabulous! The DES Kits is composed of a small number of parts carefully engraved and moulded in a resin of a very high quality.One thing that could by improved:The assembling plan...Pictures are not as clear as good drawing but customers knowing this brand won't be embarrassed with it!.

Conclusion : a small original kit owning higs qualities.It will be integrated in numerous dioramas or small bases in order to be "the star" or a very appreciated second vehicle!

The headlights come from the Italeri Horch Kfz.15 kit.The Notek light comes from Tamiya or Dragon.

 

[Jakko Westerbeke]

That kit compares very well to the later Tamiya one, I’d say. Oh, and in case you want to superdetail the model:

[Topic Officiel] Simca 5, 6, et 8 - Après guerre (1945-1971) - Anciennes - Forum Voitures de Collection

Edit SimcaCinq du 42 : Vous lavez peut être remarqué, le topic a changé de nom ! Simca 5, 6, 8 épaves et roulantes devient Simca 5, 6, et 8,...

forum-auto.caradisiac.com

🙂

 

[Gérard Deygas]

A large number of manufacturers are inspired by the superb achievements of the Brand DES kits as for its FAMO. I had the opportunity to assemble several of his models and we are never disappointed!

 

[PietvanHees]

I own a DES sd.Kfz. 9/1. It's a magnificent kit.

 

[Bert van Wiltenburg]

Don't know if you want to add another Simca but it's on sale at Hobbymarket.com, €20 now.

Simca 5 Berline (1938-45), 1/35 - DES Kit 35066

full resin model kit by DES Kit Simca 5 Berline (1938-45), 1/35 35066

hobbymarket.gr

 

[Gérard Deygas]

For the Famo DES Kits, Without a doubt it is excellent!




The figure is composed of Dragon parts.The MK35 hands ref.151 (You can find hands from other manufacturers like Hornet, Royal Model etc...) are momentarily placed on the wheel to choose the position of the arms. These latest are sculpted with Magic Sculpt.It will not be possible to equip the driver with legs because they would not fit in the cockpit. We also notice it in the Tamiya kit where the figure is undersized! one is closer to scale 1/43 than the 1/35. For my part the Simca 5 once closed it makes illusion...

 

[Gérard Deygas]

The model is painted with an Humbrol 67 tank grey basecoat.After 24 hours of drying,the Model master 1768E white-washing is applied white a large flat brush.This white coat is not applied carefully but roughly because the the winter camouflage was most of time effected by the crew members or the driver with the means at their disposal!.This water painting disappeared very quickly after rains ,crossing of rivers, frequent coming and doing of the crew and so on...



If some parts are not painted,it will be more realistic : We can imagine a work realised in a hurry. Some Humbrol 67+Revell 86 retouches applied with a thin brush will reproduce the painting splinters and diverse scratches.

 

[Gérard Deygas]

The ground is created from a mix of modelling plaster and tiling glue.The effect of the tiling glue is to retard the plaster

setting..So yuo can take your time to work it moe fully.In the coat still fresh you you can realise various prints such as wheels ,tracks,footprint...The mud colour is simulated with Winsor and NewtonBurnt Sienna+Yellow ochre+Burnt Umber+Titanium White.Once dry,the whole is covered With some oil or gloss colo varnish.urless

The Simca 5 is stuck in a muddy water and can not get out of it on its own. It is a Sd.Kfz 250 equipped with a chain that will get her out of this delicate posture. The location for the rear wheels is clearly visible

 

[Gérard Deygas]

Diverted from its original function... transit problems... Glycerin suppositories can be found on dioramas!

Numerous techniques exist to simulate water. But the easier way isto use some glycerin suppositories!This cheap medicine sold in pharmacy without doctor's prescription is supplied by lots of 10 to 20 parts.Put them just a few secondes in a micro-wave oven in order to make them melt.Then you can pour the liquid in the reserved place.Do not forget to coffer the edge of the diorama or small base.Wait for 24 hours before moving your diorama.

 

[Jakko Westerbeke]

That’s a novel idea 🙂

 

[Gérard Deygas]

Yes and implementation is very fast.

 

[Gérard Deygas]

These few photos finish my post. I will soon propose an Opel Blitz of the D.A.K at 1/35 made in 2007.Again thank you for your comments

 

[Jakko Westerbeke]

Very well made!

 

[Bert van Wiltenburg]

Spectacular

 

[Gérard Deygas]

Thank you..... dank je....Merci in french!

 

[Paul Boellaard]

C'est magnifique Gérard! 👍

 

[Peter van Dijk]

Great diorama Gérard and with the tips & trics a very nice blog too, thanks 🙂

 

[Gérard Deygas]

Thank you all for your encouragement

 

[Peter van Dijk]

Another great subject.... bring it on ! 👍 (or as i jokingly sometimes say in 'Dutch cartoon French' : aller votre corridor 😉)

 

[Gérard Deygas]

👍😉